- No more C-clamping with a self-clamping straight edge to guide your power tools for truly straight cuts
- Aluminum extrusion is extra wide for rigidity over the 54 inch length
- Raised T-tracks accept A, Twin, and Ultra series Saw Plate, Router Plate and Stop Block but will not work with Contractor series accessories
- Nylon jaws hold work piece securely and are predrilled for accessory Wide Jaws and Tall Jaws
- Make cross cuts on 4 foot by 8 foot stock
The E. Emerson Tool Company U-54 All-in-One 54-Inch Ultra Wide Grip Clamp adds extra width for superior rigidity and two T-tracks for attaching a wide range of accessories, including stops, router plates, and saw plates. Wide aluminum jaws protect soft surfaces from wear, and the jaw holes allow you to insert tall jaws, wide jaws, and story sticks. It’s especially good for 4-foot sheets, and it’s the most durable, most robust clamp you can buy.
List Price: $ 81.99
Price: $ 54.95
Where to find easy instructions on how to use a circular for the first time?
I have used power tools, drills, solder guns etc. but never used a circular saw it seems more complicated. I need to cut a piece of wood to fix a plank missing in a very old house.
Suggestion by logan_sell
EDIT( Corky did mention one thing I cant believe I forgot, Blade depth setting is of the utmost importance, while he said half an inch, i dont go much over a quarter inch of the material thickness.)
This is one of the most dangerous powertools we have. I will not tell you not to try.
Be sure your wood is on steady, sturdy saw horses placed on hard level ground.
Use a chalk line for a straight easy to see guide. Remember to pull straight up on the line when snapping, and that the string is tight.
The guide on the saw will have a cutout on its front, one side is for regular cuts and will be marked with a 0* and the other is for 45* cuts. just follow the 0* side. Use both hands on the saw until you are completely familiar and comfortable with it. Push straight and wit stady pressure as saws have a tendancy to kick back when pushed in a curved line, and this can lead to a life changing event. Do not stop the saw while in the wood, as kickbacks can also happen during the restart of the motor.
Be careful, and remember:
MEASURE TWICE AND CUT ONCE!
Suggestion by oil field trash
The instruction to not stop the saw while it is in the wood can be misleading. If you have to stop the saw while part way through a cut, you should stop it in the wood and then remove it. Otherwise, it might get in a bind and kickback.
Suggestion by Corky R
Like Logan said, this is a very dangerous tool if you don’t use it carefully, however, being afraid of it will make it even more dangerous. You should start by checking the blade guard to make sure it flips down over the blade when you pick the saw up out of the wood. That protects your legs and fingers by covering the blade, which will spin a few revolutions after the switch is released, and still has enough ooomph to cut a finger off. Try a couple cross cuts, across the width of a board, proceeding slowly, but not too much so. You will be able to tell if you’re pushing too hard, as the blade and the motor will slow down. If that happens, just relax your grip and back off a little. Cut in a straight line, jig or sabre saws are meant to cut curves, not circular saws. Set the depth of the blade to cut through the thickness of the material you’re using, but not so far as to protrude more than a half inch out the underside. Practice on some scrap wood first for awhile before making any finish cuts. You should get fairly comfortable with the tool in a short time and then you’ll be OK.