• Hex design allows you to rotate the tool in the adapter.
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• Works in conjunction with RCT-A10 Adapter

Sold as each. The half round metal file offers a flat side and a radius side excellent for deburring ductwork/metals, sharpening blades and cleaning. File is fitted to work in conjunction with Reciprotools adapter SKU # 2195964. Working area is 4.5″ x .75″. Manufacturer’s number: RCT-HRM-10. Country of origin: United States. Distributed by Ace Trading.

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What’s an in-expensive, but sturdy, wood to use to build a bed?
Im building a queen size captains bed, and need ideas on what type of wood would be a good choice, that also wont bust my pocketbook.

Suggestion by George
Spruce-pine-fir, common 2×2′s and 2×4′s thru 2×12′s as well as 3/4 x ? found at almost any lumber yard or home improvement center. They will be marked S-P-F and will be the least expensive wood available.

Suggestion by inabinet
Even if you need plywood or intend to stain int,birch is your best bet for hardwood at a reasonable price.You can get birch veneer plywood anywhere,but finding raw stock is a bit more complicated.

Below are distributers in your area,or at least very close by.These would be the best places to buy what you’re looking for.You can have the stock made into whatever width and thickness you need.
Weyerhaeuser
Sawmill

I’m already going to assume that you’ve done such a thing before,so I’m not going to load you up with building tips.We can troubleshoot in the discussion later.

Don’t use ine.If your doing turings pine tends to splinter quite a bit and it’s far too soft.

Suggestion by Casey
It depends a lot on where you live because lumber doesn’t cost the same everywhere. Some species will be cheaper in some places than others. If you’re going to the trouble of building something, it doesn’t make sense to scrimp on the main material you’re going to use. The main question is, are you going to paint it, stain it, or clear coat it? That answer will determine the type of wood to use, along with the cost and local availability.

If you’re going to paint it, then a softwood like Pine or Fir, or a hardwood such as Birch would be good choices. If stained, then Pine, Fir, Ash, Oak (by the way, Red Oak is way more porous than White Oak – they don’t make wine barrels out of Red Oak because they would leak, they only use White Oak), Poplar, Birch, of Maple. And if you’re clear coating, then basically anything would work depending on the color and texture you want.

Generally, softwoods are going to be cheaper than hardwoods because they grow faster. By the way those designations don’t necessarily refer to the actual density of the lumber because Balsa is classified as a hardwood. Pine, Fir, and Hemlock are available all over the country and are usually pretty cheap. Poplar is widely used because it is dimensionally stable, has few knots, really easy to work with, relatively cheap, has tight grain, doesn’t off-gas (I’ve used it a lot for museum exhibits because it doesn’t have fumes that will affect art work), and accepts stain and paint well. Birch and Maple are usually lighter colored, and a good choice for furniture, as is Ash.
More expensive, but with much more color and character is Cherry, Black Walnut, Redwood, and Mahogany, though it is getting harder to find.

Another thing to consider is how much plywood you’re going to use. Because it is easier and therefore cheaper to make panels out of sheet goods, their availability should determine the type of lumber you use for the rest of the bed. Birch and Red Oak plywood is widely available (even at a home center) and are probably the cheapest of the hardwoods, depending on where you live. Both stain well and also look good clear coated, depending on the individual pieces. Ultimately, it comes down to personal preference and we really can’t make the choice for you. Go to a good lumber yard and see what they have and how it will work with your budget. The soundness of your design and the quality of your construction will determine the sturdiness of the finished product a lot more than the type of wood you select. I hope that helps without adding to the confusion.

Suggestion by materiel
The least expensive is pine, but it does not have to look it. Of course it can be painted any color. It can also be stained any shade. Minwax and several other companies make stains that will color it to look like many other woods, from darkening it ever so slightly to show the grain, to darking it to ebony. It is a softwood, and therefore will bow more than a hardwood, but it is much easier to work, and can be carved with chisels or with a Dremel tool.
Of hardwoods, maple and oak are fairly reasonable in price, and red oak in particular has a beautiful grain.
It is also possible to get hardwood plywoods (most plywood is pine) like birch, which I have a table made of about ten feet from where I am, that I made, and many people have liked it, and I do myself.
Most hardwoods, in my opinion, if the grain is selected carefully will not require a stain, but just a varnish.
I use wipe on polyurethane, which I apply with a cloth soaked in it. It seals the wood, darkens it slightly, and looks quite pretty. I put it on thin, so that you can still feel the grain (thick makes it plastic-y).
Use a circular saw with a fine toothed finish cut blade. Cover where you want to cut with masking tape, mark the tape, cut through it, and the edge will be smooth when the tape is removed.
Metal el brackets make the joints stronger, as do wooden dowels or “biscuits.”
Pre-drilling holes keeps screws from splitting wood.
Good luck!